|
Problem
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
|
CID AND ALKALI SPOTTING
Irregular shaped pitting, etching or discoloration of paint film.
|
Chemical change occurs when harmful environmental contaminants such as acid rain, tree sap, bird droppings, road tar, et3. remain on the surface for an extended period of time.
|
1. Wash with detergent water and follow with vinegar bath.
2. Sand and refinish.
3. If contamination has reached the metal or subcoating, the spot must be sanded down to metal before refinishing.
|
|
BLISTERING (Solvent Pop)
1. Small swelled areas like a water blister on human skin.
2. Lack of gloss is blisters are small
3. Broken edged craters if blisters have burst.
|
1. Rust under surface.
2. Painting over oil or grease.
3. Moisture in spray lines.
4. Trapped solvents.
5. Prolonged exposure to high humidity.
|
Sand and refinish blistered areas.
|
|
CHALKING
1. Lack of gloss.
2. Powdery surface.
|
1. Natural weathering of paint films.
2. Lack of thorough agitation of paint.
3. Using paints and solvents of low quality.
|
1. Sand to remove oxidation and soft finish.
2. Polishing may restore gloss.
3. If polishing not effective sand and refinish.
|
|
CHECKING-CRAZING-CRACKING
1. Crowfoot separation (checking).
2. Appearance of shattered glass (crazing).
3. Splits and irregular separation (cracking).
|
1. Insufficient dry time of film prior to recoating.
2. Extreme temperature changes.
3. Excessive film thickness (too heavy coats).
4. Paint not thoroughly mixe4.
5. Using incompatible products.
6. Recoating a previous checked finish without proper preparation.
g. Using improper thinner or reducer.
|
Remove finish down through checked or cracked area and refinish.
|
|
DIE BACK
Loss of gloss through the dry time
|
1. Too much reducer
2. Too fast of a reducer (improper hardener reducer combination)
3. Improper ventilation or spray booth setting
4. Too coarse of sand paper on substraight
|
1. Do not over reduce
2. Use a slower reducer (be sure to keep the reducer 1 step slower than the hardener)
3. More flash between coats
4. Use a finer sand paper prior to painting (600 wet, 500 dry by hand or block, 400 on a DA)
5. Be Sure booth has good air flow but not too much
6. Allow paint to breath for at least 1hour (do not eliminate all air flow)
|
|
DIRTY PAINT JOB
Small foreign particles in surface of paint
|
1. not blowing off car correctly
2. not tacking off car
3. NOT CLEANING BOOTH
4. Not blowing off yourself or not wearing a paintsuit
|
1. clean booth and blow booth out before every paint job (do not wet down booth floor as this will cause fisheye
2. first clean car with wax and grease remover, second blow off thoroughly and then tack the car off
3. wear a clean paint suit
4. keep booth doors closed when not in use
|
|
DULLED FINISH (DIEBACK)
Gloss becomes dull as film dries or ages
|
1. Compounding before solvent evaporates or film cures.
2. Using poorly balanced thinner or reducer.
3. Improperly cleaned surface.
1. Topcoats applied on wet undercoats.
2. Washing with caustic cleaners.
3. Poor quality polishes.
4. No flash time allowed between coats.
5. Not enough film build.
|
1. Allow to cure and polish.
2. Sand and refinish.
|
|
EDGE MAPPING
Raised or lifted edges in the wet or dry paint film that outline sand throughs or featheredges.
|
Solvent from new topcoat penetrates a solvent sensitive substrate causing a lifting or wrinkling that outlines the featheredge.
|
1. Sand smooth or remove affected area with 400 grit or finer sandpaper.
2. Isolate affected area with 2K primer surfacer and refinish.
|
|
FISHEYES
A small crater in paint or clear caused by contamination
|
1. Contamination on the panel.
2. Contamination in the paint
3. Contamination in the airlines
4. Contamination in the air.
5. Wetting down booth floor (Devilbiss claims #1 cause of fisheye)
|
1. clean panel with wax and grease remover ( wipe on and wipe off while still wet)
2. Check airlines and compressor for oil contamination.
3. Clean spray booth with water and a small amount of bleach or (white wall cleaner) if you use fisheye eliminator.
4. Use fisheye eliminator in small amounts only when absolutely necessary, then booth must be cleane4.
5. DO NOT wet down booth floor before painting
|
|
LIFTING
1. Raising and swelling of the wet film.
2. Peeling of dry film.
|
1. Improper drying of previous coating.
2. Exceeding maximum flash or recoat times during application.
3. Recoating a basecoat/clearcoat finish, where clearcoat has insufficient film build.
|
Remove lifted surface and refinish
1. Do not exceed a products maximum recoat time during or after application.
2. Clean old surfaces thoroughly.
3. Avoid applying undercoats or topcoats excessively wet.
4. Seal old finishes.
|
|
MOTTLING
Streaking of the color. Generally associated with metallic colors.
|
1. Excessive wetting of paint film.
2. Uneven film thickness.
3. Using spray gun with unbalanced spray pattern.
4. Improper spray technique.
5. Over-reduction.
|
1. If color is freshly applied back away and increase air pressure for final coat.
2. Avoid reducing too much.
3. Allow base coat to flash and apply low pressure mist coat.
4. Allow to dry. Sand and apply additional color.
|
|
ORANGE PEEL
A bumpy texture in the surface of the paint or clear
|
1. reducer too fast
2. Improper paint atomization with spray gun
3. Improper spray technique
|
1. Use a slower reducer
2. Use a smaller tip and needle size
3. Use more air pressure
4. Slow down with the gun
5. Move closer to the panel
6. Use a tighter overlap
g. Very slightly over reduce paint, as a last resort only
|
|
PEELING (Delamination)
A loss of adhesion or separation of the paint film from the substrate
|
1. Improper surface preparation.
2. Incompatibility of one coat to another.
3. Insufficient flash/dry time or exceeding the products maximum recoat time.
4. Insufficient film thickness of undercoat or topcoat.
5. Regarding clearcoat finishes: Insufficient film thickness of clearcoat . Solvent cleaning basecoat before clearcoating. Basecoat applied too dry. Baking basecoat before applying clearcoat. Using fisheye eliminator in basecoat. Excessive basecoat film thickness. Improper reduction or incompatible reducer used in basecoat.
|
Remove peeling paint completely and refinish with compatible materials
|
|
PIN HOLES OR BLISTERING OVER BODY FILLER
1. Small pin point holes in finish.
2. Air bubbles raising the film causing craters when erupted.
|
1. Excessive amount of hardener.
2. Excessive stirring or whipping of hardener.
3. Applying heavy thick coats causing excessive heat buildup producing gas bubbles inside the product as it cures.
|
1. Sand thoroughly and recoat with body filler.
2. Sand thoroughly and apply glaze coat of polyester putty.
|
|
PINCH
A texture that develops through the dry time
|
1. Sealer still too wet to paint over
2. Base coat still too wet to clear over
4. Too coarse of sand paper on substraight
5. Improper hardener and reducer combination.
|
1. Allow sealer to dry more before base coat
2. Allow base coat to dry more before clearcoat
3. Keep reducer 1 step slower than hardener
4. Use a finer sand paper prior to painting (600 wet, 500 dry by hand or block, 400 on a DA)
|
|
RUNS
Excess paint or clear in one area causing a drag in the material
|
1. Reducer too slow.
2. Not enough flash between coats
3. Not enough atomization
|
1. Use faster reducer.
2. More flash time between coats.
3. Use more air pressure.
NOTE: If the runs appear after the second coat it usually means more flash time is needed between coats.
|
|
SAND SCRATCHES
Visible lines or marks in the paint film that follow the direction of the sanding marks.
|
1. Sanding with too coarse grit sandpaper.
2. Insufficient dry time of undercoats before topcoating.
3. Refinishing over soft soluble substrates.
4. Using too fast reducer in undercoat causing surfacer to bridge over.
5. Using reducer for surface cleaner prior to topcoating.
|
1. Allow finish to dry/cure and sand smooth before polishing.
2. Sand and refinish.
|
|
SOLVENT POP
Small pimples or even small crators in the surface of clearcoat or single stage paint
|
1. solvent too fast for hardener
2. air temp too high for hardener & reducer combination
3. too much air flow in booth
4. exposing paint to sunlight too soon.
|
1. slow down reducer 1 or 2 steps ( 1 step slower than hardener)
2. lower air temp if possible
3. reduce airflow in booth
4. keep fresh paint out of direct sunlight for at least 1 hour.
|
|
STONE BRUISES
Small chips of paint missing from an otherwise intact finish.
|
Loss of adhesion caused by impact from stones, car doors, etc.
|
Sand and featheredge damaged area to remove chips and refinish.
|
|
TRANSPARENCY
The original finish or undercoat is visible through the topcoat or there are variations in surface color.
|
1. Color not stirred or agitated properly.
2. Color over-reduced.
3. Insufficient color coats.
4. Substrate not uniform in color.
5. Repeated compounding.
|
Sand and refinish
|
|
WATER SPOTTING
Circles with raised edges or whitish spots in shape of water spots appear on surface of paint film.
|
1. Spots of water drying on a finish that is not thoroughly cured or dry.
2. Washing finish in direct sunlight.
|
1. Wipe with damp cloth and polish.
2. Sand smooth with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper, compound and polish to restore gloss.
3. Sand and refinish.
|
|
WET SPOTS
Discolored and/or slow drying spots of various sizes
|
1. Improper cleaning.
2. Excessively heavy undercoats not properly drie4.
3. Sanding with gasoline or other chemically contaminated solvent.
4. Reducing paint with improper solvent.
|
Sand or wash off thoroughly and refinish
|
|
WRINKLING
1. Puckering effect.
2. Resembles skin of prune.
3. Loss of gloss as it dries (minute wrinkling not visible to naked ey5.
4. This occurs on enamel finishes mostly.
|
1. Under reduced paint or air pressure too low causing excessive film thickness.
2. Excessive coats.
3. Fast reducers.
4. Fresh paint subjected to heat too soon.
|
Break open top surface of paint by sanding and allow to dry thoroughly
|
